Oh, what a week it has been… Be prepared, this potentially could get quite lengthy.
First things first, I finally started classes last Monday which means I went approximately 5 months without sitting in a classroom, by far my longest sabbatical from the guise of a teacher in my short life. My first class, Religions in Antiquity, starts at 1215 on Mondays and runs until around 2. After sitting in the class for two weeks now, I am a little disturbed that I will be required to do so for the next 9 weeks. The prof obviously knows his stuff, but I am just not getting into it. Also, college is run a little differently here than in the US. Here, students choose a program (ie theology, marketing, history, etc.) and the course map is set for them for their 3 years. No liberal arts, nothing waivering from their subject. That is all fine and good, but when I’m sitting in a class full of theology majors knowing little to nothing about what the prof is talking about, it can get a little frustrating. Moving on. For that class, we have a few group reports to give ( I literally think there is only 2) and a 3000 word essay over a reading of our choice. That’s it. Next on Mondays I have Buyer Behavior, running from 215 to 415. Let’s just say this is my saving grace for Monday afternoons. This is a marketing course so I feel right at home and genuinely enjoy the material and the professor. However, the lecture this afternoon was split in two, both halves of class featuring a different prof. The first, I had had before, and I like. The next, on the other hand, I did not enjoy. She meant well and I am confident that with a doctorate in marketing, she definitely knew her stuff, but I frankly couldn’t understand a word she said. I did translate that she was originally from Glasgow, Scotland. Fair enough, I literally just got back from Scotland yesterday and I could understand most people. However, she was also Chinese. So, she had a weird Scottish-Chinese-English hybrid accent going on, and I was having no part of it. Hopefully I don’t have her for anymore lectures, but I suspect I won’t be that lucky. Anyway, my grade for that class is based off of one poster project and an exan My final class for the week, American Art, is on Tuesday afternoons at 315 and runs until 515. The prof for that class is pretty laid back and he actually kept my attention for our first meeting; hopefully the trend continues. The grade for this is made up of one 500 word essay and a 2 essay exam. Amazingly, that’s all, six hours of class in two days and I’m done.
Now onto the interesting stuff. I was finally starting to get over the flu or whatever it was I had picked up so my excitement for the trip was growing. We hadn’t really set in stone our plans for the weekend until Tuesday. Originally, we were going to head to Salisbury, England and see Stonehenge, but Cait found a site where you could book private tours of the ruins and even walk inside the stones, but you had to schedule a month in advance. We decided that would be better than standing behind a rope and taking pictures so plans were scrapped. I did some digging and found that we could still book everything we needed for a weekend in Scotland, and the best weekend trip thus far was born. I will quickly point out that due to class happenings, Mouse was unable to attend this particular expedition. However, do not fret for him, he will be visiting later this semester. I booked bus tickets for Cait, Em, and I for Edinburgh, Scotland. Although this city would be a good stopping point, it was merely a pit stop on my pilgramage to walk the grasses of golf’s mecca- the Old Course at St Andrews. I found train tickets from Edinburgh to St Andrews, booked them, then proceded to find accomodation for our three night stay. All the ground work had been laid.
We left the Hull bus station at 9 Thursday morning on a National Express charter bus headed for our destination seven and a half hours away. The ride was uneventful. I find it funny that no matter how tired I am on the bus or train, I can never fall asleep. In fact, if I close my eyes for a moment I quickly sit up and prevent myself from falling asleep. The best way I can explain why I do this is simply because I am afraid I will miss seeing something along the route. I wasn’t disappointed. Whereas our previous trips had been mainly through cities, this one took us through northern England, then drove along the southeastern coast of Scotland before reaching Edinburgh. The view was amazing- just like in the movies, with waves crashing against cliffs, herds of sheep grazing in almost death defying positions, and farmers walking their crops- with their border collie right by their side. Just think, had I fallen asleep, I would have missed all of that. Pretty good reason to skip the nap, huh?
By the time we arrived in Edinburgh, the sun was beginning to set. Since we had absolutely no idea where anything was in the city, we hailed a cab and he took us right to the West End Hostel, where we would spend the next two nights. We had a private 3 bed room, which is by far superior to sharing a room with a stranger so if you’re ever staying in a hostel, I recommend it. Our first quest of the trip started soon after: our quest for traditional Scottish fayre. Continuing our tradition of eating local cuisine, we found a restaraunt not far from our hostel called the Sizzlin Scot. Surely they would have what we were looking for. We sat down, and to our surprise, we actually had a waiter, something we hadn’t had since we left the states. He was very nice and talked to us about our home and told us some sites to see the next day. I peered at the menu, searching for one thing and one thing only- haggis. It really doesn’t get much more culinarily Scottish than a plate of hot haggis and tatties. Sure enough, I found it. Honestly, I really wasn’t sure if I would be able to stomach it, so I ordered a smaller portion as an appetizer for all of us to try and decided on yet another Scottish dish for my main meal, lamb chops with a sweet glaze and mashed potatoes. When the moment came that the waiter brought us the haggis, a silence fell over the table. It looked, well, interesting. To see for yourself, go to my shutterfly page at codyspicts.shutterfly.com and look in the Scotland album. Three columns of food stood on the plate: one of mashed potatoes, another of mashed sweet potatoes, and the piece de la resistance (probably misspelled), haggis. Although all of us had an idea of the chief ingredient of haggis- sheep stomach- we really weren’t certain of everything that made it up. We debated as to whether or not to ask the waiter or google it later. In the interest of actually keeping the courage to eat it, we decided to look online later. We all took our first bite of hot haggis- just sounds appetizing, doesn’t it? The texture was creamy, savory, with a salty, gamey flavor, followed up with a spicey finish. I’m happy to say we ate it all. Cait and I actually really enjoyed it. Em kept it at one bite and called it quits. We continued on with our main course. What I believe was my first lamb experience was awesome. The meat was extremely tender, and the glaze accompanied it very well with an almost apricot-esk sweetness. Unfortunately, the girls were not as happy with their steaks. What can I say, you just don’t get beef like Iowa beef over here.
After our meals we returned to the hostel, and yes, we did look up what is in haggis. From the recipies we found, here is what appears to be a standard ingredient list and prepatory guide:
1 sheep’s stomach bag
1 sheep’s pluck – liver, lungs and heart
3 onions
250g beef Suet (kidney fat)
150g oatmeal
salt and black pepper
a pinch of cayenne
150mls of stock/gravy
1. Clean the stomach bag thoroughly and soak overnight. In the morning turn it inside out.
2. Wash the pluck and boil for 1.5 hours, ensuring the windpipe hangs over the pot allowing drainage of the impurities.
3. Mince the heart and lungs and grate half the liver.
4. Chop up the onions and suet.
5. Warm the oatmeal in the oven.
6. Mix all the above together and season with the salt and pepper. Then add the cayenne.
7. Pour over enough of the pluck boiled water to make the mixture watery.
8. Fill the bag with the mixture until it’s half full.
9. Press out the air and sew the bag up.
10. Boil for 3 hours (you may need to prick the bag with a wee needle if it looks like blowing up!) without the lid on.
11. Serve with neeps and tatties.
Caitlin no longer likes haggis.
The next morning I had a gaggle of activities planned so we awoke early and set off to our first stop: the Edinburgh Castle. The walk was about a mile, all up hill, and by the time we arrived at the castle entrance, I had two girls chewing my ear off. “My legs hurt!” “”My calves burn!”"Why are you walking so fast?” Blah blah. They quickly overcame their fatigue and hatred and were happy to have joined me on the journey. Right next to the castle is a gift shop area with a cashmere factory in the basement. So, before we went inside the castle walls, we stopped inside. It was neat to see the looms making both cashmere and wool blankets, scarves, and gloves. While we were in there, the girls disappeared for a while so I took to browsing until they were ready to meet again. They had all sorts of cool items in the store. Of course wool and cashmere things from the factory below, but also hand blown glass and crystal from just down the street. Let me tell you, it was hard to walk out without buying something, but I didn’t. Little did I know, the girls were off buying me presents. Emily got me a fancy pen with a celtic design on it, something I had told her I wanted long ago. And Cait bought me a very nice crystal set with two small whiskey tots and a bottle and stopper. Of course, to even the score I bought them each a souvenier as well, but I will leave it up to them to share what I got them.
After spending much more time and money than we had originally anticipated in the shops, we headed to the castle. Our ickets included a free tour so that was first on the list of things to do once inside. The guide was informative, giving us an overview of the buildings on the inner walls, while not actually going inside any of them. This was nice because we got the opportunity to figure out what everything was and then walk around and explore deeper the things we really wanted to see. The view from the top of the castle was pretty cool, overlooking Edinburgh and the land surrounding the city. We saw a lot, but really there isn’t too much to write about. It was old, made of stone, that’s about it.
Next on the list was the Sctoch and Whiskey Experience, just down the road on the Royal Mile. Although this distillery offered tours, we all felt the price of admission was a little steep so instead we jsut went to the gift shop. I bought a few minature bottles of scotch whiskey, basically ones that I liked the look of the bottle. After all, you can’t visit Scotland and not buy whiskey. Oh, and by ”a few bottles”, I mean 5.
By this time, we were all ready for a break so we made the trip to a- this hurts to say- a McDonalds. What can I say, I caved in. The food was good, a welcomed taste of America. After finishing our meals, we headed back to the hostel to relax and recharge, because I had yet another outing planned for that night- a much more sinister, haunted outing.
Our next Edinburgh experience was the not so accurately named “Cadies and Witchery Tour: Murder and Mayhem.” This tour was led by two “ghosts”, Adam Lyal and Steve. Adam wore what appeared to be a dracula outfit, his face and hair so white that he glowed in the flash of my camera. Steve was the “jumper-ooter”, as they called him, and took turns dressing up in what ever Edinburgh poltergeist Adam happened to be telling us about. One thing about the jumper outers, the point of having them was to scare you. However, when asking the girls if they wanted me to book a tour online, I may have lied and said there wasn’t going to be anyone jumping out an grabbing you. Frankly, I wanted to go and I read that CHILDREN were welcome on the tour. I figured anything ok for a 6 year old would be fine for two nearly 20 year olds. Right? Now, the point at which they found out I was lying was when we were standing at the starting point, waiting for the guides to arrive. To make matters worse, they found out from a pamphlet that was at the checkpoint, and not from me. They were not pleased. However, as more and more families showed up to go on the tour, they were comforted to see small children, just as I had told them before. The tour began and Adam led us around alleyways and told us stories of witch trials and executions that had happened in the cities history. For the first half hour, I don’t think Em and Cait unleashed their white knuckle grasp of eachothers arms. Seriously though, it was hilarious, and when the first jumper outer, the six foot two inch guy wearing a dress and wig, popped out from around the corner, all we did was laugh. That really was the point of the whole thing, to make you laugh while teaching you of such a dark time in the country’s history- and they did an excellent job. The tour lasted about an hour and a half and we laughed the whole time. At one point, Em was asked to help with a demonstration, go to my shutterfly page to watch the video, you won’t be sorry. Once the tour wrapped up, we went back to the hostel and passed out. It had been a long, long day.
Yet again, we woke up early the next morning to catch our train to St Andrews. This was the part of the trip I was most looking forward to, and I was happy to see that we had awoken to a beautiful sunny morning. Side note: Scotland is known for being the country of four seasons. Big deal, right? Iowa has four seasosons, too. Well, my friend, in Scotland, you will experince all four seasons in a 12hour period. Everyday we were there, we went through times of dark, cloudy, windy cold followed by sunny t-shirt weather, immediately chased away by a down pour of rain, and finally a mild, sunny period- the best part of the day.
Back on track- Once we had made it to Leuchars train station, we had to catch a cab into St Andrews. Again, we were lucky to find a nice cabbie who talked to us and took us right where we needed to go for a fair price. We had booked a room in the only hostel in St Andrews, and unfortunatley, it was a 7 bed room, which meant we would have to share. Luckily, when we arrived we found out that we would probably have the whole room to ourself since we came in a group. That was a huge relief. I really don’t mind sharing a room, but when I’m carrying money, credit cards, and a passport, I tend to be a little hestitant to be in close quarters with a stranger. After a short break, we headed out into the town of St Andrews, much to the discontent of the girls who wanted to sleep. But alas, we only had one day there so no time could be wasted, at least in my mind.
St Andrews is a small, old, Scottish town, situated right on the east coast of the country. With only 15000 people, it was a far cry from the bustling city atmosphere we had grown accustomed to after our last trips. It was a welcomed sight in my book. Most of the attractions were right along the coast, so we walked to the northern most point and walked south, beginning at the Cathedral ruins. They were exactly what the name implies, ruins of a 12th Century Cathedral and cemetary. We spent a short amount of time there before heading to the path to take our first up close and personal look at the cliffs and beachest that make up the Scotland coast. It was quite a site. We all just stood for a while and enjoyed the sunny weather and the calming quiet of a small town and crashing waves.
Next, just a short walk down the beach were the ruins of the St Andrews Castle. Although this castle was much smaller and had much less remaining in terms of structures, I actually preferred this to the Edinburgh castle. To each their own, I guess. We didn’t actually go inside the walls, we instead walked down the path carved into the cliff and onto the sandy beach below. Collecting shells and rocks, we took turns climbing on the huge limestone slabs that littered the beach. It was now time to do something Cait had always wanted- take a freeze frame jumping picture of her and Emily on the beach. She said that whenever she thought of the beach, the one image that popped into her head was of people jumping and having their pictures taken in mid air. Well, as her and Em jumped, I shot pictures, approximately 25 pictures until we finally got one right. The process was hilarious with both of them falling, hurting themselves, and getting sand in their pants. We had a great time, but decided it was time to move on.
Before heading to the southern most point on our map, we walked past St Andrews University, then stopped at a pub to energize us for the rest of the day. This time, no haggis.
It was now time for my most anticipated experience of the entire semester: seeing the birthplace of golf, the oldest golf course in the world, the Old Course at St Andrews. As we approached, I immediately recognized the Royal and Ancient Golf Club and I became more and more excited. We walked down past the club house and I got my first glimpse of the course itself, looking down the first hole fairway. Unfortunately, there were people playing at the time so access was limited but it was quite an experience just to see it. After wandering around and picking up some souveniers, we went back to the hostel for a rest.
While Cait took a nap, Em and I decided to look into the board game selection at the hostel. Although they had a lot of games, none of them had instructions and none of them were familiar. We settled on a game called therapy. We made up our own way to play and basically, you had to answer 5 questions right from each stage of life to pass onto the next one, and eventually win the game. We never actually finished, but after about an hour of play one thing was abundantly clear: never ask Emily about anything therapy related, especially if it has to do with ink blot tests.
That evening, we went to the Dunvegan, perhaps one of the most famous 19th holes in the world. This pub and hotel is situated right off of the 18th hole of the Old Course and has played host to the most prominent players of the game. Although it is literally a hole in the wall, we walked in and had to fight through a crowd of people to get a table. The walls were covered with pictures from events in the game of golf and players that has visited. Name a player and they had once had a beer at the Dunvegan. A very cool experience for me, and the girls too because they got to have what they had both wanted for days: dessert. While Cait enjoyed her apple pie and Em her chocolate cake, I finished my Carlsberg and headed back to the course to hopefully get some pictures. When I arrived, I found there were STILL people playing, so I was still unable to get a first hand look. Knowing I had some time to kill, I walked down to the beach right across from the course and climbed out onto some rocks that jutted out of an area called Witch Lake. I hung out there for about a half hour, just taking in my surroundings and snapping some photos. Check my shutterfly page for a short video I took from my perch. I met back up with the girls and they decided they wanted to see where I had been so we headed back down to the beach and stayed there until the sun had set.
Both you and I know that there was no way I was leaving that town without seeing more of the course, so at 645 the next morning, I dragged the girls out of bed and made the walk to the Old Course. I say I dragged them, but they actually came volutarily, whether they were happy about it is a whole other issue.On Sundays, the Old Course is closed so people, like myself, can go out and walk on it. And walk on it we did. Before the sun had even peered into the sky, we had begun our hike, only a few Scots and their dogs accompanying us on the course. We took countless photos, and walked all 18 holes. Every last one of them. All as the sun rose over St Andrews. Em told Cait that although she may not know it, she should feel lucky, because most golfers in their lifetime never visit this place, much less see the sun rise over the coast from the 2nd hole. She just rolled her eyes, but we all know she thought it was cool. Our train was scheduled to leave at 937 and I expected us to be off the course by 815 giving us plenty of time to walk to the hostel, call a cab, and make it to the train station. Well, 9 o’clock rolled around and we were just getting to the 18th hole, but there was absolutely no way I was leaving that country without getting a picture on the historic Swilican bridge which connects the 18th’s fairway between a burn that runs across the first and last holes. We spent another 10 minutes taking turns getting our picture taken on the bridge, making sure we each had one that turned out. We even paused to take a picture for a group of Spainards who had asked us for the favor. In return we also got a picture of the three of us- a rarity with one person always having to hold the camera.
The next 30 minutes were a blur. We power walked to the hostel, checked out, called a cab, rode the the station, and still got there 10 minutes early. Pretty good timing I’d say.
The rest of the day was travel, anxiously awaiting our arrival at home where we could look at our pictures sleep in our own beds. We arrived in Hull around 8 Sunday night, it was raining. We boarded our last bus for the trip and after 15 hours of bus rides, 2 hours on a train, 4 taxi rides, 20 miles of walking, two countries, two hostels, and two wonderful Scottish cities, our weekend vacation was complete…. and that was only week 3!
Our plans for this weekend are to go to Pembroke, Wales which is about 11 hours away by bus. Read up next Monday for stories about that trip.
Cheerio.